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Temps de lecture: 3 minutes
1260m Massif : Valais W – Alpes Pennines E
1260m Secteur : Valais
NW Description
Difficulté PD

De la cabane du Weissmies (2726m) prendre le chemin qui part derrière la cabane à flanc de coteau comme pour aller au Jegihorn. Traverser le torrent grâce à la passerelle et prendre immédiatement à droite (cairns) le sentier qui remonte la rive droite du torrent. Ce sentier conduit sur la moraine rive gauche du Tälligletscher que l’on suit tout le long.

A l’extrémité de la moraine, 100m après un grand cairn, courte descente sur la gauche puis traversée du glacier en diagonale. Rester sur la gauche (rive droite du glacier) et environ 150m avant le fond de la vallée, repérer un cairn qui indique la trace pour monter dans les éboulis proche du Jegigrat jusqu’au pt 3263.

Prendre une pente de neige raide, pouvant être en glace (chutes de pierres). Atteindre le pt 3527 (place du déjeuner).

Traverser en oblique ascendante le Gruebengletscher en passant au mieux entre de nombreuses crevasses (neige et glace) pour atteindre une selle vers 3840m (magnifique vue plongeante sur la face N) puis le sommet par l’arête (3982m).

Descente, par le même itinéraire

Remarques :
  • Un court passage raide vers 3860m.
  • Il est aussi possible de descendre plus à gauche (moins raide mais plus de crevasses).
  • Orientation N sur les 200 premiers mètres puis NW.

Possibilité d’enchaîner avec la traversée sur le Lagginhorn par l’arête N (ajouter 2h) et descente par la voie normale de celui-ci.

4h30 Accès

Lausanne > Sion > Brigue > Saas Grund

matériel : matériel de sécurité sur glacier (corde, broches, mousquetons, sangles …)
E1

Deuxième sortie de la saison pour la section montagne, et nous revoici dans la vallée de Saas Fee, quel plaisir. Cette fois-ci c’est le “presque 4000” Fletschhorn qui nous attend. Une superbe course facile et très efficace nous a permis de passer un excellent moment en montagne encore une fois.

Et dire que dans les années 1950, ce sommet faisait parti des 4000 de Saas Fee…

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